The house of Guerlain welcomes the newest addition to its
Les Absolus d’Orient collection and this time, it features an eponymous interpretation of a ‘cuir’ fragrance in a signature Thierry Wasser-style.
Last week I had a chance to test the new “Cuir Intense” at an exclusive press event held here in Dubai and I got to admit, so far, it’s been impressive! Over the last few decades, the legendary Parisian house and its latest concoctions have re-defined the woody-oriental genre all together. This is in part driven by a strong influence of Middle Eastern fragrance preferences that are aptly captured in artisan spellbinding compositions. The distinctive leather note featured here, is also seen in some of Guerlain’s timeless classics and some of their newer fragrances, including — Shalimar, Mitsouko, La Petite Robe Noir, Habit Rouge, L’Homme Ideal line and Oud Essentiel from the same line.
Top: Osmanthus, Ylang-ylang
Heart: Leather, Musk
Base: Tobacco, Cedar, Sandalwood
Before I start with my review, let’s see what Guerlain has to say about Cuir Intense:
The Perfumer Explorer Thierry Wasser, driven by this impulse to discover far-off lands, continues his correspondence with the Orient through a new emotion. He has skillfully explored each of leather’s facets to deliver a refined creation that unfolds. Balancing the power of dark leather and woody notes with the gentle osmanthus, delicate Chinese white flower and suffused with apricot accents. All that remained for the perfumer to do was to exquisitely blend sandalwood, cedar and tobacco, inviting the senses to take flight even further.
Okay, I may sound a little biased here, but truth is, I love sandalwood fragrances in general and this is a high quality, well blended fragrance where sandalwood and oud notes dominate. You get the delicate osmanthus and apricot in the opening paired with nuances of birch tarry-leather but this phase is panned out quickly. After half an hour its all about sandalwood, leather and tobacco.
The leather note here is honeyed sweet, tarry, smoky and velvety. Could this be how Thierry Wasser defines ‘Cuir’ as? Sensual leather. Dark, spicy, with a hint of birch-tar smokiness and dry tobacco musk. Well worth investing into since the leather/sandalwood note in this is beautiful.
As with the other fragrances from the Absolus line, you can tell that the quality of the ingredients is very high and each note, smells incredibly wonderful.
Performance / Sillage:
Performance wise, this stuff is an absolute beast with the sillage and longevity. The projection is solid and remains strong during the day. I’m back from the event and I can still smell the fragrance on my shirt the next day. I believe this might become one of Guerlain’s signature scents with a universal appeal. You can read more about their 190th anniversary special releases here. We have also reviewed their L’Essentiel foundation here, which you might also find interesting.
This exclusive perfume only comes in the 125 ml bottle, and will be available across all Guerlain boutique counters starting next week. Do let us know what you think about this new release.