Welcome to our brand-new blog series “What’s Trending Now?,” the premise of which is pretty self-explanatory. Under this pretext, we’ll be introducing you to a new skincare concept each month and highlight products and services that you might find interesting. Although there’s a huge surplus of beauty products generated by the cosmetics industry —what seals the deal for us, is when we find brands that value the complexity of today’s consumer. This narrows down our search to brands that offer bold skincare innovations that fuse scientific discovery with nature exploration. Today, on Sahar Reviews, we present one such brand. Scroll down to read more about Skin Perfection by Bluevert, and check out what we think about the Advanced Day Serum by Skin Perfection.
Skin Perfection is a new range of cosmetic products formulated by Arturo Álvarez-Bautista. All their patented formulas are developed in-house, at the Bluevert laboratory which is based in Madrid.
Marine-based beauty products are now part of a new wave of skincare revolution. Also touted as a superfood, microalgae is the star ingredient in all of Skin Perfection’s formulations. To provide a sustainable model for the cultivation of this key ingredient – the microalgae is cultivated in closed photobioreactors, after which they are harvested, dried and pre-treated to release the stored bioactive compounds.
This post contains affiliate links for your convenience that we feel will be beneficial to our readers. If you purchase something from our links, we will receive a small commission from the sale at no additional cost to you.
Role of Microalgae in Cosmeceuticals
As such, bioactive compounds originating from microalgae have gained much popularity in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals because of their hydrating, moisturizing, anti-ageing and skin repairing properties. The significance of these ingredients are so diverse, but it’s application in skincare is still under par, compared to its potential.
About a month ago, I was contacted by the marketing team of Skin Perfection, and was invited to learn more about the brand. I took some time to research about the brand, knowing that these are marine-derived, and not much has been published in terms of reviews and testimonials on this. I did my own literature review and scanned through several research papers and articles to understand the science behind it. It is after checking through their ingredients’ list, that I was drawn to the formula of the Advanced Day Serum. In addition to the serum, the team also sent me the complete range to try and I’ve incorporated them to my skincare routine and have loved it so far. But let’s talk about that in a while.
I’ve tried to explain the science behind the formulation, but feel free to skip down to ‘The Bottomline’ section to find a summary of my experience.
Design and Aesthetics
The serum comes packaged in an opaque glass bottle with a secure cap to keep the ingredients fresh. As you probably know – light, air and heat can all break down vitamin C and diminish its potency. So this is something that should be a priority when it comes to product presentation.
Texture and Performance
Texture and performance-wise, it’s a winner. It feels lightweight and is very layer-able. The formula swipes on easily and absorbs quickly. It also lightly moisturizes without leaving a sticky film behind. Overall, I find it suitable for all skin types, although its recommended to patch test any new skincare product before using it.
Formula and Ingredients
- Plasmarine™ Active Complex: this is an encapsulated anti-ageing complex with a high concentration of marine microalgae. Incorporating specific types of seaweeds with anti-aging benefits, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance fine lines. Moreover, since the oceanic ingredients have high levels of omega 3 and lutein, it also helps with soothing, regenerating and barrier repair elements — so really, you can’t go wrong here.
- Vitamin C: a potent antioxidant that protects your skin from oxidative damage, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and diminishes dark spots or discolorations.
- Ferulic acid: a well-known antioxidant that enhances the benefits of vitamin C. You’ll be familiar to this, if you’ve used vitamin C serums from other brands like CE Ferulic from Skinceuticals.
|Ingredients||What Does It Do?|
|Plasmarine Active Complex||Patented multi-action concentrate: anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, firming, repairing, soothing and protective|
|Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid 15%)||Antioxidant, and is considered essential for many cellular and skin functions including collagen synthesis, maintaining skin integrity, photo-protection and neutralizing free radicals|
|Ferulic Acid (0.05%)||Antioxidant. When used in conjunction with other antioxidants such as vitamin C, it helps to stabilize vitamin C and provides a synergistic advantage.|
|Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, or Argireline||Anti-wrinkle peptide that emulates the action of botox|
|DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol)||Anecdotal evidence of its firming and lifting effect|
|Hyaluronic Acid |
(different molecular weights)
|Humectant, meaning that it helps retain moisture|
Now that we have covered the ingredient-aspect of this serum, let’s take it a step further.
What’s in the Plasmarine Active Complex?
As previously discussed, although the concept of marine-based skincare is not new, and many cosmetic brands have used microalgal extracts in their formulas— there’s still plenty of scope for more discoveries. According to some estimates, the total number of species ranges anywhere between 70,000 to over 1 million — of which, only a few thousand have been identified and studied.
The Advanced Day Serum contains two microalgae (Chlorella vulgaris and Nannochloropsis gaditana); each with a unique profile and range of bioactive compounds. Although there are some studies looking at the possible skin benefits of microalgae in humans, the research we have is generally limited to laboratory and animal studies.
|Chlorella Vulgaris||Nannochloropsis Gaditana|
|Chlorella, a so-called superfood, has earned a favorable reputation among its supporters for its high nutrition profile. It is packed with a wide range of antioxidants, amino acids, iron, B12, calcium, omega-3s, vitamins, and minerals.||Nannochloroposis is rich in omega-3 fatty acids (EPA and DHA). It has been used for nutritional purposes.|
|The high amino acid profile makes it great for improving skin texture and elasticity. Studies on animal models have also shown that Chlorella vulgaris may help in accelerating the wound healing process and reduce inflammation.||It can be used as an antioxidant. A 2017 study has reported skin protective properties of Nannochloropsis gaditana against induced oxidative stress.|
|Evidence of Chlorella vulgaris noted in stimulating collagen synthesis and its role in tissue regeneration.||Early reports of its role in promoting skin cell renewal and slowing the natural ageing process.|
|Reduces inflammation, wrinkle formation, role in anti-ageing.||Cell-regeneration, role in anti-ageing.|
My personal experience with the Advanced Day Serum by Skin Perfection
Although it is being marketed for its oceanic ingredients, but look a little closer and you’ll find that this serum provides more than just that.
Packed with marine-derived extracts — this hydrating, anti-ageing serum delivers what it promises. It soothes, calms, protects, moisturizes and neutralizes free radical damage. I must add, the combination of active ingredients has been very interesting. In particular, the addition of 15% L-ascorbic acid and ferulic acid to this formula has further potentiated its antioxidant activity. Together with other antioxidants that help to keep cells healthy, this day time serum also helps reduce inflammation and redness. On top of that, it also includes peptides to help repair the barrier and hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin.
DMAE: There are two sides to this story
The formula also contains DMAE, which is shorthand for dimethylaminoethanol. In general, DMAE in concentrations of 3% has shown promising results, with some papers even reporting how it improves the overall appearance of ageing skin. However, it’s use in skincare has been somewhat controversial, in part, due to conflicting research and limited RCT studies. One study in particular has discussed some potential side effects of this ingredient, which includes vacuolar cell expansion. Put simply, the study showed how DMAE makes wrinkles disappear by purportedly damaging skin cells.
I know I may have digressed a little from the topic, but I think it’s important to discuss this here. The pH of the formula plays an important role in the safety profile of DMAE. In the study presented by the Canadian researchers, the amine form of DMAE was used, which has a pH of 10. To be most effective, the acid mantle should be maintained at the acidic pH 4.5 to 5.5. When you use high alkalinity products directly on skin, it can disrupt the normal pH balance, leaving the skin barrier compromised.
If you refer back to the study, the researchers have used bafilomycin A1 to partially block the increase in intracellular pH and that reverses the problem. Know that when it comes to ingredients like DMAE, the concentration, additives and the pH of the formula contribute to its action. Having said that, the efficacy of DMAE has not been compared in any published studies with other established anti-ageing ingredients, so there’s still scope for more research in this area. All things said, the choice of whether or not you feel comfortable using this ingredient in your skincare routine is entirely yours.
Regarding its use in this serum, know that DMAE is buffered with L-ascorbic acid (pH=3) to make the formula suitable for daily use.
The Advanced Day Serum by Skin Perfection (priced at: AED 245 for 30 ml, as of 25th May 2021) checks all the right boxes – from its presentation all the way down to its impressive blend of antioxidants, moisturizing and skin repairing ingredients.
And a little goes a long way! All you need is 3-4 drops for your entire face and neck. Going by that, one bottle should last 2 months. Also, the serum has a distinct and noticeable scent, but it does not smell pungently of the ocean. But if that should bother you, you can always add a layer of moisturizer on top, which is what I recommend you do.
What sets this apart from the rest is that although its mainly centered around marine ingredients and microalgae, it also includes many other well-researched ingredients.
Overall, I’m very pleased with it and adding to it my personal skincare routine has been a pleasure! 🙂
For best advice, always consult your dermatologist. They will gather your medical history to determine whether you’re genetically predisposed to acne, or identify if there’s an underlying condition, such as PCOS, or if you are overweight, allergic, etc.